Monday, March 16, 2009

Indigenous Islands and Lake Titicaca

The Uru Reed islands were some of the most unique things to experience on the trip. The islands were made of a long plant that when dried looked like hay. This plan was woven and set on top of a type of root soil that floated on top of the water. The islands themselves due to this special root were floating. Communities of people live on these islands and say they have to rebuild there house every year because of weather conditions. The houses are made of the reed as well. They are one room homes with beds made of the plant, and some houses even had a tv and radio in them. The women dressed in colorful skirts and jackets in which some colors had different meanings, and the way they wore their hair said whether they were single, married, or in a relationship. In earlier times, when a woman got married she moved to her husband's island, but now things have changed a little bit because one of the women told us her husband moved to her island. Some of us dressed up in the clothing the people were wearing and danced with them. The people themselves seem very content with the islands they've built, they are very lively people, as we could see by the bright colors and dancing.
After leaving the Uru Reed Islands, we went to Taquile Island on Lake Titicaca. Upon arriving at Taquile Island it began to rain, this is significant because just five minutes before it had been bright and sunny. The climate changes so abruptly and the people are always adapting to it. We walked about half way up the island to a civilized center where there were men, women, and children standing around socializing, and selling products. In fact, by the time we got to the center the rain had stopped already and it was sunny again. There were certain men that had black hats on, and these hats signified their status as leader. The children told us they did not go to school, this was something that we found common along the trip. Many of the children walked around, at all hours of the day, selling things to tourists. We left the center and walked the rest of the way up the island, we had lunch at the top and the view was miraculous. One could see the entire Titicaca lake and the whole island. After lunch, a man presented us with a plant that they use for soap and shampoo. He grinded the plant up and rubbed a spongey material in it. They demonstrated washing the hair of llama with this soap, and we got to test the soap out ourselves, as well. It did not smell like anything though. After the soap plant presentation, a family showed us a dance that they like to do. The men pulled some of us up with them and we did the dance as well. When we walked back down the island, we went different way than we had come. Going down we walked down a set of stairs that were very steep. The views were incredible, really from any point on the island you can see an amazing view of the lake, and surrounding areas. When we finally reached the dock, some of us jumped off into freezing cold Lake Titicaca. They said it was one of the most amazing experiences they could describe. After jumping in they said they felt as though they could not breathe but it felt suprisingly cleansing and refreshing.

Colonial Chruches

On march 12th, the class embarked on a long bus ride to Puno. On our way to this new town, we stopped at two churches that show an immense contrast from the previous Inca "churches" that we had visited. The church at Huaro, is a small colonial structure on the outskirts of Cuzco. before the entry, the floor is decorated by rocks that form circular shapes. Inside, one can see a large mural that represents the christian views of hell and sin. it is evident that when the Spanish colonizers began to take over the Inca empire, the imposed their views of salvation and Christian religion upon the Quechua people. Images of saints and Jesus Christ are displayed around the walls. the church is very saturated with gold adornments. Also, the ceiling has a very concentrated architecture and shows some shapes of Arabian architecture with a large whole in the form of a star in the center of the ceiling. In comparison with the Inca Huaca's and religious shrines, the colonial architecture seems a bit over done and plainly less esthetically attractive. This great contrast symbolized the intense difference between the Quechua and Inca culture and that one of the Spanish colonizers, the transition that these groups underwent must have been scrutinizing.
After visiting the church we headed towards the temple of Wiracocha in Racchi. The architecture of the structures that have survived was actually quite different from the previous sited that we had visited. The main structures were like immense walls that were actually not formed by the typical geometric rocks.The complex is made up of housing, temples, palaces, astronomical observations, food storehouses and walls. It is located on the right bank of the Vilcanota River between 3450 and 3550 meters above sea level. A quarry was also visible where the construction materials were brought from.

Royal Estates

March 10th, the study group set out from Cuzco to our final destination of Ollantaytambo. On our way to the royal estate of Urubamba, we stopped at a recreation of a contemporary llama and alpaca Quechua farm. Lamas and Alpacas come from the same family as camels do, hence why they can live a long time without drinking water. This very particular animal was very important in aspects of not only Inca agriculture and society, but also their cosmology and religious beliefs and practices. Llamas were very useful for their fur in order to make textiles that were very prominent for Inca practices, everyday life, as well as trade. The weaving techniques are still practices and form an important part of today’s Peruvian Quechua society. After the stop, we headed towards a beautiful resort type hotel and restaurant next to a large and heavy flowing river next to the mountains where we enjoyed yet again some of the best food in the world.
Traveling through the mountains, we arrived at Urubamba. Scholars comment that “Pachacuti, who ruled from around A.D. 1438-1471, celebrated each of his military excursions by creating an estate…in the old Tambo domain; he created an estate and a palace at Ollantaytambo” (Niles). The palace at Ollaytantambo was an amazing architectural structure that serves to foreshadow what we would soon see at Machu Picchu. Large terraces are seen where the Inca’s used to keep their farms, these terraces form what appears to be a stairway to heaven. At the top of the estate, one can look over to a river and an adjacent mountain where it is believed that rocks were brought from. The Inca’s actually were developed enough to change the course of the flowing river to facilitate the transportation of materials. Not only this, but looking at the opposite side of where the estate was created, one can see what is believed to be a storage complex. “The size of the buildings as well as the capacity of the complexes attest to the quantity of goods produces on estates.” (Niles). These storage places were created to aid in case perhaps “The Nino Year” came along and crops did not produce what was expected. The architecture of this storage unit is very intellectually engineered. Large rectangular shaped that look like a crown from the distance are separated by space where when the afternoon cold winds blow, they flow through the spaces and can be useful for refrigeration purposes.
At Ollantaytambo, this storage house is also located next to one of the most amazing Inca remnants ever seen. There is a huge face carved into the rock. Some suggest that this was already here, but I believe that the structure built on top of the face that forms what appears to be a crown, or a typical Inca ornament worn on the head of the leaders, suggest that the Quechua people themselves built it for their Inca kings.
Then we set off to Aguas Calientes and prepare for our big day at Machu Picchu.

Sunday, March 15, 2009

MACHU PICCHU

Machu Picchu is one of the most important places in the Inca empire. The architecture of the buildings at Machu Picchu is very symbolic of the Inca people. Most of the buildings built by the Incas are constructed of stone walls, and the places we saw at Machu Picchu were of no exception. Machu Picchu is mysterious in that many people are still coming up with theories about what exactly it was and what its meaning was in the Inca empire. It is said that Machu Picchu resembles that of the royal estate in Inca settlement, "the estates were defined as being outside the state administrative system and its support area, belonging instead to a specific Inca ruler and his descent group segment" (26). This theory is consistent with some of the things we saw at Machu Picchu. For example, we went into a part that was said to be the king's quarters where his bathroom was, signifying roylaty. There were also places used for agriculture at Machu Picchu, we came across many fields of grass and there were actually some llamas roaming around there. In an earlier post we mentioned the water mirrors for looking at the solar system, at Machu Picchu we saw two of these next to each other. It was interesting that there were two because duality is a major theme in Inca society, so perhaps the two mirrors are significant of that.
Machu Picchu was home to the royal and elite and there were three residential places that had terraces looking toward the central plaza. These areas are different than the normal residential areas at Machu Picchu so it can be concluded that perhaps this was home to the elite. Each one of these places is different in architecture. They are surrounded by stone walls and the biggest of the three, the Ingenuity Group and Private Garden Group, is split up into 4 different parts. The parts are connected however by "narrow stone staircases" (28).
Throughout Machu Picchu there were many shrines showing us that there is also very strong religious connotation on the compound. The upper part of Machu Picchu contains many buildings and architectual settings that were used for ceremonies and activities of that nature. The areas are the Main Temple, and the Intihuatana. The Intihuatana is "an elegant carved stone with a tall vertical shaft, that may have served to follow the movements of the sun" (36).
Machu Picchu, as mentioned before, is one of the most fascinating places in the Inca empire. Climbing up the vast compound and walking around the grassy areas, surrounded by mountains, was a life changing experience. The area is so well protected and really symbolizes many themes seen throughout the Inca empire, such as astrology, agriculture, religious worship, architecture, etc.

A Different View of the Sky

We started out the day by visiting Coricancha, the temple of the sun. The Inca people came here to worship the sun. The temple was not only devoted to the sun, other important deities such as the moon were centered there as well. This temple is notable for its gold, as well. There are many shrines and one of the most interesting displays is a plaque said to be made out of gold that has representations of the sun, mother earth, the Incas, mountains, etc; all things that were very important and the basis of the Inca people. The solar system plays a major role in the Coricancha, for example, at the center of the temple there are invisible lines called ceques that "form four parts corresponding to the four royal roads which went out from Cuzco" (154). There were shrines that were on each of the ceques, representing holy or sacred places.
Later at night, after visiting the temple, we went to a really cool planetarium where we were able to see all of the constellations and ways that the Inca tracked the stars and the solar system. The planetarium was really one of the most informative and interesting sites on the trip. We went into a dome shaped room where there was incense burning and the stars were projected on the ceiling. Mapped out were constellations such as the Southern Cross which was used as the Inca method of navigation. One of the ways the Incas tracked the solar system was through a man made mirror. It is a pool of water surrounded by stones and the water reflects the sky. This strategy works really well because as opposed to spending hours straining your neck to look up you can just look down into the pool and also instead of just staring into the sun, which is painful, to track its movement, you can look into the pool.

Monday, March 9, 2009

Always going up....but not always on the right road.

The second day of our beautiful visit in Cusco we had planned to go visit an inca site, though this goal was accomplished, we had to change our plans due to a guide malfunction. The long and bumbpy bus ride may have been painful, but we actually got to see some of the most impressive views around the world. The montaneous regions are purely green and full of life, where there is actually hope that industrialism has not reached every corner of the world. One can see llamas, alpacas, pigs, donkeys, chickens and cows throughout the landscape. So after stopping totalk to a few locals we finally arrived at an archeological site where remnants of the Inca empire were still vissible. We had to walk up hill for about an hour to reach this place. The archaeological site was an ancient Inca palace. Some of the palace was original but some parts had been reconstructed to protect the site. We had the opportunity to walk all around the palace and we went to a room that was used for making beer out of maiz. In this room there were circular shaped holders that held the arivalos upright. The arivalos needed a holder for support because the bottom came to a point and they could not stand up by themselves. We were guided up to the site by a man who spoke Quechua, a very ancient language that is still spoken today by a small part of the population along with Aymara. Our tour guide played the flauta all the way up the mountain to the palace.

De Lima a Cusco

Arriving at Lima after quite the flight we got our first sight of Peru. The city is very impressive in that it encompasses many attributes of the Castillian culture and at the same time it felt as if we had arrived in a new world. We visited a museum where we learned a basis of the different cultures that have lived in Pery throughout the centuries. Pottery and jewlery differed depending on the culture, where some used color, and other stuck to creating different shapes. It was really interesting to learn that arivalos were used in the Inca society to store beer made out of maiz. This product was very symbolic because it was used as a means to allow reciprosity to function within the society as a payment for labor and energy. Also, we learned the importance of gold, as a representation of men and the sun, as opposed to silver, as a representation of women and the moon. As different cultures besides the Inca worshiped many dieties, some were more inclined towards the sun God, where others were moved the the moon God, but tipically it was a difference of sex. Consequently, duality was very important in these cultures as well. As we left the museum we had the opportunity to experience true peruvian cuisine in El Bolivariano, where we enjoyed a great assortment of foods from aji de gallina to guinea pig. The next morning we flew to Cusco.
Cusco is a small city in which one can find a wide variety of remnants from the ancient Inca empire. The high altitude greatly affects the human body, and as soon as we arrived we saw a part of the culture that is very significant. The coca leaf is used as a natural medicine that helps with the symptoms that the altitude might bring. The coca leaf has been used in the inca culture as well as cultures in Peru to this day and it was very important in agriculture and trade as well.
Cusco is surrounded by mountains and it is a part of the variety of enviroments that one can find in Peru. This enviromental difference is very important when understanding the Inca society and how they endured, survived, and prospored through such tough conditions. Not only is the enviroment completely different when moving locations, but it also varies within a location. This variety allowed the Inca to take advantage of a vast array of goods such as marine life, where they extracted their source of protein. In the highlands, maiz was vastly cultivated as well. We also got to enjoy great cuicine here as well. La Cicciolina was a very classy restaurant with great food that was caracterized by many different tastes and combinations. The architecture and art was also very impressive. On our way out we experience what some would call a culture shock.It is very evident that there is great inequality in Peru, just as there is in many Latin American countries. Actually, Latin America has the greastest inequality and uneven distribution of income in the whole world. Things are much different here, but it only helps to not take ones life for granted so often.